I’ve rented a two-room building in Mashaeng Township in the eastern Free State since early 2009. It’s an unconventional holiday home, but also a living classroom in which I’ve learned much about life in a rural South African township. I walk in the commonage, hike in the mountains, play board games with visiting children, visit friends (ho tjhakela), attend funerals and other ceremonies, community meeting, and St Elizabeth catholic church as a warmly welcomed visitor despite my lack of religious faith…and I take pictures. Here are some from a week in April 2026.
Half way between Jo’burg and Mashaeng (or Fouriesburg if you are heading to town rather than township) is the small town of Heilbron. I stop to buy the famous Heilbron slab chips at Maderia, a chip shop of industrial proportions. Across the road is Leo Supermarket. It took me a few seconds to work out what was puzzling me about their sign.
On the neighbouring stand there was an all night traditional healer twasa ceremony. Saturday night was punctuated with singing.
Big skies of the Free State
The funeral of Ntate Linka Sephofane who went out in style.
It was one of the wettest visits I can recall.
And with the incesent rain came mud
Children make the most of the dry spells
Always nice to have young visitors. I have a selection of games for us to play.
And to watch a different world (to Jo’burg) go past.
Endless compositions of stone, wood and wire available…
And endless shapes and patterns to digitally manipulate…
